Online Marine Cargo Freight Insurance Quotes

Marine Cargo may be separated into Conventional Cargo and Specialised Cargo.

Conventional Cargo includes:

• combined cargo, import/export and within Australia
• annual import/export, and
• single transit risks.

Specialised Cargo can also include:

• fruit and vegetables
• bulk commodities
• livestock
• cargo loss of profits, and
• project cargo

Marine Cargo insurance will cover you for loss or damage to goods in transit either within Australia or imports/exports to and from Australia or a combination of all three.
Based on the Institute of London Underwriters' wordings for road, air and sea travel, local insurer Marine Cargo insurance products can be arranged and placed on an "all risks" or restricted cover basis.

There are three types of marine cargo insurance coverage available:
Institute Cargo Clause (A) covers all risks of loss or damage to cargo except those excluded by the standard exclusions, such as delay, ordinary loss in weight or volume, ordinary wear and tear, insufficient and unsuitable packing and inherent vice.

Institute Cargo Clauses (B) and (C) provide less comprehensive cover.

MARINE CARGO (IMPORT/EXPORT) & MARINE INLAND TRANSIT INSURANCE

Annual Marine Cargo Insurance - Imports/Exports
Cover for commercial goods being imported or exported to or from Australia.  Convenient insurance of all shipments where the insured's risk attaches during the policy period. Premium is by deposit, adjustable on actual declared value of annual shipments. Best suited to insurance of imports but can apply to exports.

Marine Single Transit Insurance
Insurance for a single sending of goods (other than home removals), or livestock, with a choice of a number of standard cover options. Individual terms and conditions may be arranged for sendings not catered for by standards covers.

Marine Inland Transit Open Cover Insurance
Automatic insurance of goods, with monthly declarations of sendings and no deposit premium required.

Marine Goods in Transit Insurance
Annual insurance of all transit of goods or livestock which commence during the policy period. Premium by deposit, adjustable on declared value of annual sendings. Two cover options, and a very wide transit clause, plus valuable free cover benefits.

Marine Goods in Transit (Own Vehicles) Insurance
A simple and inexpensive annual cover for losses occurring to goods carried in any vehicle owned and/or operated by the Insured. This complements the cover provided by motor insurance on the vehicle. Flat premium on sum insured per vehicle, without the need to record and declare the value of goods carried.

Marine Specified Items in Transit Insurance
Annual cover for losses occurring during transit of any specified items likely to be regularly transported by registered road vehicles, including trailers. Simple and affordable insurance against major transit risks for all kinds of items, from tools of trade, computers and musical or other equipment, to boats or racing cars.

Marine Carriers Cargo Liability Insurance
Insures the liability of carriers for loss of or damage to goods carried and resulting liability for delay, loss of market or consequential loss. Includes approved legal costs. Available only to carriers using approved conditions of carriage.

Marine Carriers Goods in Transit Insurance
A flexible insurance cover for customer's goods in transit, allowing the carrier to arrange compensation for goods lost or damaged irrespective of legal liability.

A marine services Singapore article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - Best SEO companies in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

Fire Insurance Claims - Tips to Consider After the Fire is Out

Almost everyone who has suffered damages to their property as a result of a fire insurance claim makes costly mistakes during and after the settlement. However, there is one very costly mistake that policyholders make time and time again without even knowing it. And, the winner is (or should we say loser); Most policyholders simply rely on their insurance company adjuster to inspect, evaluate, and estimate their entire insurance claim without checking up on them. This can be the most costly mistake anyone could ever make in their entire life.

It's bad enough to have your property destroyed by fire, but relying on someone else to visit your property, inspect it, provide a proper value, and then trust that they got it all correct... Is Simply I N S A N E ! Yet, policyholders allow this to happen all across the country, day-in and day-out. For most people it's human nature to count their "change" at the grocery store or diligently review their dinner bill to be sure the waiter didn't charge them for items they did not order.

 We've all done it. We go out of our way to count and keep track of our chump change. Yet, when it comes to tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands of dollars from a fire insurance claim, we rely on the insurance company without question.

No one knows your property like you do. There is much to do to properly prepare and configure a fire insurance claim that in most instances, items are forgotten or missed during the process. Especially if it's done by someone at your insurance company. They don't know about your building, your property, or your contents (furniture, clothing, etc.) like you do.

How could they possibly be as accurate as you? Furthermore, just because an insurance company adjuster visits your property for an inspection does not mean they are a professional contractor, builder, or certified in fire and water damage restoration.
With the review of thousands of closed claims, we have found that in most cases, both insurance companies and policyholders unknowingly miss damages that are hidden from the naked eye. In almost all instances; it is a good idea to have a professional review your fire damage claim. Preferably a fire insurance claims appraiser, consultant, or fire consulting firm.

Policyholders often believe that when the insurance company sends them a check and they deposit the money in their bank account - the claim is closed. This couldn't be further from the truth. The fact is; that in most states a policyholder has 3-years to make a claim and even ADD to an existing claim. So, a review of your claim to see if you have been properly compensated can occur, during the claims process or even after the claim has been settled. You can also obtain more money from your claim - even if it has been torn down and demolished.

Yes, even if your claim has been settled and you have deposited the checks, or your building has been torn down and demolished, you can still obtain more insurance proceeds if the damages were not assessed properly. In many cases, tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands of more dollars. Even when a policyholder believes they have received a fair settlement... they usually have not.

However, it's up to the policyholder to do their part to protect themselves. Here are a few tips to assist in the review of your fire insurance claim. There are tips if you are in the middle of your claim - as well as tips if your claim has closed some time ago.

During Claim -
Document Your Building Damage: Take the time to inspect and document the damages yourself. Take photos of all damaged rooms in your building. Take overviews of the room and then take some close-up photos of the damaged ceilings, walls, floors, windows, doors, etc. of that room as well. Work your way around the building to the left (clock wise). Before entering the next room, closet, or hall - take an overview. This will be an easy way to organize which photos belong to which rooms. An example is; Overview of living room, then from top to bottom, photos of ceiling, walls, windows, doors, then the floor. Then the first photo of the next room is an overview, and so on. (No pictures or close-ups of contents yet, just the rooms.)

Closed Claim -
Obtain Documents Of Your Building: The insurance adjuster has taken photos of your building during their inspection. If you have no photos yourself, or minimal photos - then request all photos taken by the adjuster from the insurance company. You should also request the diagram/sketch they used to calculate the square footage of your building. Also request the complete detailed estimate they have written to arrive at their numbers. This documentation will be useful for the fire insurance claim consultant you choose.

During Claim -

Document Your Contents Damage: Next is to visit each room and closet once again to inventory your contents. Take an overview photo of each piece of furniture, pair of shoes, shirts, pants, etc. Then a close-up photo of any damage on that item. Write each item down on a Contents Inventory Form. ( Download one by contacting us at the link below. ) Similar to the way you have photographed and organized your building damage photos, you should do the same with your contents.

 Example; Take overview photo of living room, then work your way around the room to the left (clockwise). Photograph and list all the items on each wall until you get back to the doorway you began at. This way items will not be missed or forgotten. Once the living room inventory has been completed, move to the next room and start by taking an overview photo of the room. this helps organize what room the contents were located. List the name of the room at he top of each page of your inventory list. Now the photos and the list are both organized in sequence with each other.

Closed Claim -
Obtain Documents Of Your Contents Damage: The insurance adjuster has taken photos of your contents during their inspection as well. If you have no photos yourself, or minimal photos - then request all photos taken by the adjuster of your contents. You should also request the complete detailed contents inventory they have written to arrive at their numbers. This documentation will be useful for the fire insurance claim consultant you choose.

During Claim -
Review Your Policy: Fire victims must take the time to review their insurance policy. You must know the basics; How much coverage do you have on your building? How much coverage do you have for your contents (furniture, clothing, etc.)? How much coverage do you have to stay in a hotel or to rent a home or furniture? Surprisingly, many people don't know this. In many cases the policy has been damaged in the fire. If this is the case; visit your agent and ask for a certified copy of your full policy. Ask your agent to help explain how much coverage you have.

Closed Claim -
Obtain Copy Of Your Policy: Contact your insurance company and request a certified copy of your "FULL" insurance policy, including the Declarations page. This documentation will be useful for the fire insurance claim consultant you choose.

During Claim -
Consult A Professional: The insurance company will have an adjuster visit the property, inspect the damages, and complete an estimate on the amount of loss. It is important that you have the same process completed for yourself. How do you know the insurance adjuster is doing their job correctly? Are you willing to forfeit tens of thousands of dollars by not taking the time to make sure? The insurance company is supposed to explain all the fire insurance claim coverage that is available to the policyholder, however, this is rarely done.

Sometimes it's done on purpose, and other times it's also done on purpose (Did you catch that? This is done on purpose more often than not.) It's your property, it's your policy, and it's your money. Educate yourself to be sure you are being fully compensated for your loss. Hire a fire insurance claim professional to review the insurance company's evaluation. Obtain your own "real-world" prices and costs to replace your property.

Closed Claim -

Consult A Professional: Did you receive a fair settlement for your fire insurance claim? How do you know unless you ask someone? If you are unsure if you have obtained a fair settlement from your insurance company, you owe it to yourself to find out. If you have collected all the data as outlined above; you will have enough data on your claim to have a professional review it.

A review of your claim will allow the fire insurance claim consultant to advise you where you stand. Leaving yourself in the dark, with a chance of forfeiting tens of thousands of dollars, or even hundreds of thousands of dollars makes zero sense. A small fee to find out where you stand is a small price to pay, compared to a large sum of insurance proceeds that you did not know existed.

The reasons are simple. See, the insurance company adjuster works for the insurance company, whereas the fire claims consultant works for you. You've done the right thing by making sure you had insurance coverage. It's up to you to take the next step and be sure you have received what you paid for.

A Singapore marine services article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - The best SEO company in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

How to Clean Your Air Ducts

Can you clean your own air ducts? The answer is yes! But, for the DIY'S there is some information you will need to know. There are several methods used to clean air ducts. Most of these methods require special equipment and training! So, there is only so much the DIY'S can do to clean their air ducts. It's more of a partial clean! Also, some air duct cleaning companies will use Biocides or Ozone to rid your ducts of contaminants. Biocides are chemicals that are used to rid your air ducts from bacteria and mold.

Ozone is a gas that is used to kill biological contaminants. Chemical biocides are regulated by the EPA under the Federal Pesticide Law. Any chemical can be dangerous, so do your research or hire a professional! Using chemicals without proper training is not recommended. Also, before cleaning your air ducts it's important to know what type of ducts your home or business has installed.

The most common type is flexible ducts and are typically insulated to conserve energy, reduce condensation and temperature control. Most metal duct work is used for industrial purposes and is typically more expensive. Air duct cleaning is much easier on metal air ducts than flexible ducts. Also, the insulation in flexible duct work is more likely to re-soil with dust and mold. You will need to clean more often. If you choose to clean air ducts yourself here are some tips.
1. Air ducts cannot be cleaned without tools! So, you will need a ladder, screwdriver (look at duct vents to determine), flashlight, wet/dry vacuum with long hose and soft bristle attachment. Also, you need to wear rubber gloves and face mask (respirator) for safety. You do not want to breathe the contaminants from your air ducts. Once you have the proper cleaning equipment then you must examine the ducts for contamination. First, run your finger along the inside of the ducts. If you see dust on your finger then your ducts are dirty. So, proper tools, training and contamination severity are the first thing you need to determine. Once this is complete you can move forward to the cleaning process.

2. First, remove the vent covers from the walls or ceilings. Be careful not to damage the vents or duct work when removing. If there is paint build-up on the vents you can use a putty knife (run around edges of vent) to remove without damage. Next, you need to set-up your vacuum system for cleaning. Most wet/dry vacuums come with several attachments. You want to use the long hose (attach directly to vacuum) and the hard plastic tube (attach to hose) with soft bristle brush to clean your vents.

Turn "on" the vacuum and begin the cleaning process. When cleaning the ducts make sure to clean with ease.....do not clean with force! Use just enough power to break the dust or mold away from the walls of the duct work. Use whatever cleaning pattern works best for you. Be sure to clean all the cracks and crevices (hard to reach places) so you can achieve the best results. You are only going to clean up into the vent so far with the length of hose. So, when there is no more hose to clean with you have gone as far into the duct work as your going to go. This process may take some time!

If you are going to use anti-bacterial solutions to disinfect (spray after the cleaning). Be sure to read the bottle for mixing instructions and "How to Use" on the label. After the ducts are cleaned then you need to clean the vents. A good cleaning solution is bleach and water. You can use the "Rubber Stopper" in your kitchen sink (fill up sink to half) and then add 3 caps of bleach. Use warm or hot water. Let the vents soak for about an hour. Once the vents have soaked to remove debris then dry off and reinstall. Make sure the vents seal correctly around the edges. Next, you need to clean the wet/dry vacuum. Do not use the vacuum again until it's been cleaned!

Read your owner's manual for cleaning instructions. Also, you need to replace the air filters in your system. You can purchase good quality filters from most hardware stores. This process will achieve quality results if done properly.

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Duct-Cleaning Using Biocides and Ozone Treatments

Cleaning air ducts has become a common method of reducing the amount of indoor air pollution. There are a number of methods that air duct service providers can use to clean ducts. One method is the use of Biocides and Ozone treatments.

Moisture and humidity in a duct can be a breeding ground for such biological contaminants as mold, mildew, fungi, and bacteria. Some air duct cleaning service providers will use chemical biocide or ozone to kill these organisms.

Ozone
Ozone is a highly reactive gas that is regulated as a lung irritant. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), Ozone is a very corrosive and toxic gas which is harmful to humans in any concentration. Available scientific evidence shows that at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone has little potential to remove indoor air contaminants.

This means that to be effective at removing chemicals or preventing and killing microorganisms, the amount of ozone that would need to be used would be dangerous to humans and animals. Ozone concentrations of five to seven parts per million are needed to kill microorganism contaminants that reside in the ducts. Because of the health risks, people and animals should stay away from a building until the ozone levels have normalized.

Exposure can harm the lining of lung tissue and it can also be a carcinogen. Using ozone as a duct cleaning method tends to be more popular with businesses and industry than residential homes. An air duct cleaning service can come to a building on a Friday after the office has closed for the weekend and clean the ducts using ozone.

This would allow for enough time for ozone levels to return to normal. Some duct cleaning companies are promoting high concentrations of ozone as an effective duct cleaning method. High concentrations have been shown to kill dust mites, bacteria, and mold.

Biocides
Some duct cleaning services may use chemical biocides to kill microorganism contaminants such as bacteria and fungi. They apply a biocide to the inside of the ducts that is designed to kill microbiological growth. This is a very effective method of killing bacteria, fungi, viruses, and mold. There are some health concerns about using this type of method. Because biocide is a chemical, it should not be inhaled as it is a lung irritant and carcinogen.

When using a biocide, occupants should stay away until the cleaning has been complete and the ducts are complexly dry. This will prevent chemicals from being blown through rooms where they could be inhaled and cause illnesses. Chemical biocides tend to be more popular for business and industry.

Ozone cleaning methods and the use of biocides should be utilized with extreme care and only if approved for that purpose by EPA. Chemical biocides are regulated by EPA under the Federal Pesticide Law. A product must be registered by the EPA for a specified use before it can be legally used for that purpose. The specific uses must appear on the label, as well as other essential information. Federal law requires that pesticides only be used for their specified purpose.

The EPA and most experts do not normally recommend the use of biocides and ozone as a method of cleaning duct systems unless they have been specifically approved. A small number of products are currently approved by the EPA. When properly used by a trained professional, biocides and ozone can be an effective way of cleaning ducts. Because of the health hazards, more care has to be taken when using the products. Make sure the service technician explains the health and safety measures they employ before they start cleaning.

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The Main Components of a Solar Hot Water System

Solar Collector Panel - Mounted on your roof, the collector captures the heat from the sun and transfers it to the liquid circulating through the panel. Sometimes this liquid is water, but it can also be a special type of fluid that eventually transfers the heat to your home's storage tank through a heat exchanger. See below.

Storage Tank - The heater storage tank is your home's current boiler/hot water heater. The heated water captured by the solar collector panel is stored in the tank for later use.

Heat Exchanger - The heat exchanger transfers the heat energy captured by the solar collector panel to the potable water that is stored in the heater tank. In our system, the heat exchanger is external to the solar storage tank.

Expansion Tank - The expansion tank ensures that the system's pressure does not exceed the pressure limits set by the system designer.

Control system - The control system consists of a controller and the circulating pump. The controller compares the temperature difference between the heat exchanger exit point and the solar collector's exit point. When the collector panel's temperature is higher than the heat exchanger temperature, the controller turns on the pump and circulates the liquid through the system until the temperature is equalized, and then turns the pump off.

Flat Plate Solar Collectors
The principal component of a flat plat solar collector is the absorber plate, which consists of an assembly of a copper sheet and copper tubing.

The top surface of the absorber plate is coated with either a dark colored material or with a selective absorbent coating that is designed to extract as much as 15% more heat for the same active area. The solar radiation that strikes this surface is converted to thermal energy that's used to heat the fluid flowing through the tubes.

To ensure extended service life, Free Hot Water collector parts are housed inside an anodized Aluminum case that's capable of withstanding many years of exposure to the elements. The components inside and the back of this enclosure are insulated in order to minimize potential heat loss.

The upper surface of the collector is covered with tempered glass with low iron oxide content. The glass is designed to withstand high thermal stress (heat from the sun!) as well as impact from hailstones.

Free Hot Water's Flat Plate Solar Collectors are high performance thermal collectors certified by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC) as OG-100, appropriate for large installations such as apartment buildings, hospitals, restaurants, retirement homes, and other businesses.

SRCC Collector Ratings
Any quality collector sold in the United States is examined and approved by what's commonly known as the SRCC, which stands for the "Solar Rating and Certification Corporation." States such as California will only issue rebates to collectors and complete systems that have been rated by the SRCC.

And who is the SRCC? The SRCC is an independent agency that administers a certification, rating, and labeling program for solar hot water collectors. They also have a similar program for complete residential solar water heating systems.

• Solar thermal collectors have what's known as an "OG-100″ certification. These can be used on any roof with a custom installation. Apartment buildings, hotels, laundry mats, car washes, and hospitals all require custom installations that include OG-100 panels.

• Complete solar water heating systems that include OG-100 solar collectors, storage tank, and other components have an "OG-300″ certification. Residential systems don't typically need custom engineering, which is why most residential systems are sold as complete SRCC rated kits.

All equipment that the SRCC certifies and rates is required to bear a certification label, which shows the performance rating for that product. In addition, each certified product is published by SRCC in a directory.

Each product's directory listing contains information on the product's material and specifications as well as the certified thermal performance rating. For example, our Free Hot Water 7000 and 5000 and 4000 series are all OG-100 certified.

See the label for our 7000 series specifications and how the collector performed on sunny days, cloudy days, and other specifications. You can then compare Free Hot Water solar collectors to other certificates from other brands and make apples to apples comparison of performance and the materials used to make the panels

Sizing Your Solar Water Heater Tank
The simple rule of thumb is that on average, you should consider 1.5 gal of hot water storage for every square foot of solar panel installed.

For example every FHW-FC7275 collector has 25.25 sq ft of active area (the "aperture area"). An average system with two FHW-FC7275 should have a 75 gal storage tank capacity.

Please note that this type of calculation is a rule of thumb and is only intended to give you a good "ball park" number. In reality, storage capacity should be calculated based on:

1. Heat production capacity of the solar array

2. Isolation

3. Water usage patterns

4. Desired water temperature

5. System type

A fin tube heat exchanger PR article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - The best SEO company in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

The History of Cleaning Products and Why We Use Them

Why we use cleaning products is obvious-for personal cleanliness and health. From the very beginning of washing off dirt and mud with water, to the start of the Middle Ages, most cleaning compounds were made from mixes of ashes, animal or plant fats, and oils used for cleanliness and health. The fall of the Roman Empire prior to the Middle Ages led to reduced cleanliness and catastrophic diseases. By the 17th Century, bathing and cleanliness experienced a renewal.

Over later centuries, soap was considered to be a luxury item, and was taxed. When it became affordable, the general public began to benefit again from the use of soaps. During the early to middle 1800's, soap chemistry was studied and improved. Costs were reduced, and soaps were even more affordable to all increasing usage.

The availability of washing machines in the early 1900's helped increase the use and popularity of soaps and led to modern developments in soap chemistry. Following World War II, detergents gained in popularity over soaps, and are now used liberally. The importance of soap and cleanliness for disease prevention is another reason for educating the public about using soap products.

Today's cleaning products not only are safer for public use, but also for the natural environment. Current chemical research has led to the development of modern detergents and cleaners used in janitorial and cleaning services worldwide.

There is an abundance of new cleaning products for every purpose at home or in commercial use. Soaps and cleaners are used in bathrooms, kitchens, and public businesses to help assure safety and disease control. People are aware of the dangers of germs every time a major disease occurs, or an epidemic is threatening a population.

Medical advisers recommend frequent hand washing as the first step in preventing flu, colds, and other commonly found diseases. Hand washing is the number one step taken in the medical community to avoid spreading germs around hospitals, clinics, and industrial locations.

Safer chemical products are available that have less impact on the environment and that are eco-friendly. Low suds, cold water, and fragrance free products help the green movement, and address some allergenic problems people may have.

Obtaining the vast array of new cleaning products has never been easier, thanks to the Internet and easy access to large cleaning and janitorial product service companies. Delivery is fast and affordable, saving time and money for all who order online.

Today is the best time in history to be able to use and enjoy safer, healthier cleaning products. Research continues to bring improvements to the marketplace, and new uses for cleaning products are found every day, everywhere. Through the development of cleaning supplies throughout history, there is now a cleaning product available for every use and every need, but no matter how the history has changed, the cleaning products are all still used for cleanliness and health.

Search for chemical cleaning services in Singapore? Visit us today over http://heatecholdings.com/.An article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - One of the best SEO companies in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

Replacing Your Furnace Does Not Require That You Replace Your Air Conditioner

So you either want to or need to replace your furnace. Money is tight and you can not afford to replace the air conditioner at the same time. This is no problem and do not allow yourself to be talked into changing them both out. The furnace can easily be changed now and the air conditioner kept intact or replaced at a later time.

Talking with your contractor frankly about what you want is always a good policy. If you have an old furnace that needs to be replaced, or if your furnace develops a cracked heat exchanger, many contractors practically demand that you change everything at once. This is not the truth and you need to know that changing either the heating or cooling sides out independently is very possible.

Now I will say that from a contractors point of view that I would always feel out the customer to see if they were willing to change everything. Hey, while you are in the mess of changing one it does make it easier to do both and the total price of the contract is higher which is always nice as far as the contractor goes. But from a homeowners point of view the money is not always available to do what you would like to do. So you need to just bite off a bit at a time, even if it costs a bit more in the long run.

Find a contractor that is willing to work with you. This may not be the lowest price, but the contractor that will work with you will give you the best job and make you the happiest. If you tell the contractor that you need to make the air conditioning last a year or two longer, but that you want to do it then, he can make provision for that change and make that change easier when the time comes along.

For most systems changing out the furnace just involves installing temporary supports to hold the indoor coil while the furnace is taken out from underneath it and then the coil is just lowered back down onto the new furnace. With a little forethought and care this can happen very easily. I have done this many times and it will work great!

Good communication is the best way to get what you want. If you are talking and the contractor is not listening to what you want, then do not buy from him no matter how good the price is. Find the contractor that is willing to listen to you and mesh his plan with yours to give you the system that you deserve and can afford.

A shell & tube heat exchanger article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - The best SEO company in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

Solar Heat Exchangers - Heating Your Home With The Power Of The Sun & Stop Your Air Conditioner Leaking Water

If you are interested in harnessing solar power for solar heat in your home, but are not quite in the position to be installing solar panels and a large solar heating system, you should consider using a solar heat exchanger. Solar heat exchangers are great for heating your home in many different capacities. They are also usually quite affordable.

Did you know that heat exchangers are used throughout your home already? They are commonly found in cars, refrigerators, and air conditioners and they regulate the heat that is generated and used in these items. They prevent over-heating and transfer the right amounts of heat to the right places. Solar heat exchangers are essentially the same, but they transfer the sun's heat instead of heat generated by an appliance or engine. They usually use liquid and air to transfer heat to another area, such as your swimming pool or your hot water tank.

One of the most popular types of solar heat exchangers is a swimming pool heater. These are great for any swimming pool owner. As you may know, heating a swimming pool can be expensive and consumes quite a bit of energy. If you don't want to give up your heated pool, but still want to be environmentally friendly, you should look into installing a solar heat exchanger.

Another type of solar heat exchanger is one that works to heat smaller areas, such as hot water heaters and sheds. These heat exchangers are great for those individuals that want to use solar heat, but do not want to spend a lot of money. These come in a variety of styles and sizes, so you can choose one that suits your needs.

Stop Your Air Conditioner Leaking Water

The three most common reasons for water leakage from heat pumps are dirty filters or heat exchanging coils, blocked drains, and a shortage of refrigerant. They are pretty simple to diagnose and repair.

Remember: Turn off the power source to your air conditioner before trying any of the following!

1. Dirty Filters and or Blocked Heat Exchanger
When the filters, or heat exchanging coil, are dirty or blocked, this causes a restriction in air flow. This in turn can then cause the temperature of the coil to drop. If the coil temperature drops below zero, moisture in the air that is condensating on the coil can freeze and form little ice flakes which are then blown out of your air conditioner, causing water leakage.
Check the filters, and if they look dirty, give them a good clean with the hosepipe or shower head. Remove all the dirt and give them a spray with a kitchen or bathroom antiseptic spray to kill any bacteria or mould on them.

Check the aluminum coil behind the filters. If it is covered in dry lint, try vacuuming the coil carefully with the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner. If it is particularly dirty, you will need to use a garden spray bottle and a strong grease removing kitchen cleaner. Spray it on the coil, allow to work for around 5 minutes then rinse the coil off with the spray bottle. This should remove the dirt and improve the air flow. Please be careful not to spray water near to the electrical panel on the air conditioner.

ALWAYS read the manufacturers' manuals on how to clean your heat pump or air conditioner correctly!

2. Blocked Drains
On a wall mounted ductless air conditioner, a blocked drain can be pretty obvious and easy to diagnose. Water will usually drip down the wall from the back of the unit and may also leak through the air outlet at the front if the drain is blocked.

Stand on a small ladder and look down from the top of the air conditioner. Towards the bottom of the heat exchanger is a little plastic tray which is designed to catch the condensate produced by the cooling mode of the air conditioner. Check that this tray is not full of water or overflowing.

If your outdoor unit is directly behind the wall the indoor unit is mounted on, your drain pipe will likely follow the pipework through the wall and drip into the garden. If this is the case, find the end of the drain pipe outside, wipe the end clean with a cloth then blow as hard as you can into it. This should clear any blockages.

If you cannot clear the blockage yourself, or if it is buried inside the wall, you will need to phone a professional HVAC service company and book a service call.

3. Your Air Conditioner Has A Leak and Has Lost Refrigerant
If your air filters and heat exchanger are clean and you have lots of air flow, your air conditioner should deliver plenty of cool air. If it is struggling to cool the room for a few hours and then starts leaking water from the air vent it may be short on refrigerant.
Set your heat pump to the lowest setting possible and leave it to run for a little while.

Then check the heat exchanging coil underneath the filters. If it is covered in ice, your air conditioner has a leak and requires a professional to service it. If your air conditioner is leaking refrigerant, the leak will need to be found and fixed before it can have additional refrigerant added to it.

If in doubt, or these tips don't work, contact your local air conditioning company for a service.

A shell & tube heat exchanger article by Dougles Chan - Search Engine Guru - The best SEO company in Singapore and globally. Contact Dougles Chan @ +(65) 9388 0851 or email to dc@dougleschan.com for more information on how to make your website to be the top in Google.

What Is a Chiller Plant Design and How Do They Work?

A chiller plant design consists of many pieces of HVAC equipment that are all interconnected by piping to form a chiller plant. This article will look at a water cooled chiller plant design.

The major parts of a water cooled chiller are the compressors, the evaporator heat exchanger (piping circuit #1) and the condenser heat exchanger (piping circuit #2). There are two separate piping circuits in a chiller plant design.

A chiller produces cold water that is typically circulated (pumped) to cooling coils that are inside air conditioning units. This is called the chilled water piping circuit, circuit #1.

The air conditioning unit fan takes air from a room and blows this air across the cooling coil to produce colder air and then circulates this colder air through a duct system to cool the room.

Once the cold water from the chiller cools the air, it becomes warmer, and it must be circulated back to the chiller so that it can become cooler again.

A chiller uses a refrigerant to cool the water, but once it cools the water the refrigerant becomes warmer and it rejects its heat to the cooling tower (or condenser water) piping circuit, circuit #2, so that the entire process can start over.

The basic design consists of a chiller or multiple chillers, chiller water pumps for the chilled water piping circuit, a cooling tower or towers and cooling tower pumps for the cooling tower water piping circuit.

In a water cooled chiller plant design, there is a cooling tower which is considered a heat rejection device and it takes the unwanted heat from the chiller, by circulating water through the chiller and then takes this warmer water and rejects this heat to the tower. The tower then takes the heat from the water and rejects this heat into the atmosphere. This is the second piping circuit and is called the condenser water circuit.

There are many different types of chillers that must be considered in a chiller plant design. The difference is the type of compressors and the difference in efficiencies in each type. There are scroll type compressors, reciprocating type, screw type, centrifugal type and there are chillers that do not use compressors such as steam absorption type chillers.

In a chiller plant design the chiller is selected based upon the amount of tons of cooling that it can produce. A ton of cooling is equal to 12,000btuh. So a 20 ton chiller has a 240,000btuh cooling capacity. The chiller cooling capacity must be equal to or greater than the cooling requirements of the building at peak load which occurs during the summer.

A chiller plant design is usually required for larger buildings with multiple floors because it is much easier to pump water around a building than it is to circulate air. The chiller plant is centrally located and chilled water is pumped to air conditioning units that are located closer to the areas that they have to cool.

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Energy Efficiency in Air Cooled Chillers

An air cooled water chiller removes heat from water or other process fluid by use of a refrigeration system that then dissipates that same heat into the air. The energy efficiency is given by the chiller COP.

 The chiller operates by using the change of state of a refrigerant gas which when forced through an orifice at high pressure changes state from a liquid to a gas, absorbing heat through the chiller evaporator heat exchanger. This cold expanded gas then travels to the chiller refrigeration compressor where it is compressed into a hot, dense gas and pumped to the chiller condenser. The volume that the compressor can pump, the refrigeration gas used, and the operating conditions determine how much heat is removed.

At the air cooled chiller condenser the refrigerant is forced by the compressor through smaller copper tubes which have thin aluminum fins mechanically bonded to them. Ambient air is then forced through the condenser coil by the chiller fans. This causes the hot refrigerant gas to condense into a liquid, changing state, and releasing the heat that the gas collected at the chiller evaporator. The waste heat is then carried away into the ambient air by the fans. The liquid is then forced through the orifice and the process starts again.

The heart of the chiller is the refrigeration compressor. This is a pump that uses electrical energy to pump refrigerant around the system. Depending on the application like size or operating temperature, a different compressor pumping technology is used. Smaller chillers use refrigeration compressors like rotary compressors, scroll compressors, and reciprocating compressors. Larger chillers use refrigeration compressor like reciprocating compressors, screw compressors, absorption compressors, and centrifugal compressors.

Each type of refrigeration compressor can operate more or less efficiently in the air cooled water chiller depending on the water or glycol outlet temperature required, the ambient air temperature conditions and the chiller refrigerant used.

 The efficiency of the chiller compressor is given by the COP or Coefficient of Performance which is the ratio of kW of heat removed to kW electrical input required. The higher the chiller COP is, the better the energy efficiency. For example a COP of 3 means that for every 1 kW of electrical input, 3kW of heat is removed from the water. A chiller COP of 5 means that for every 1kW of electrical energy input, 5kW of heat energy is removed from the water.

 Typically chiller COP will vary as follows:

1. Holding the chiller condensing temperature constant: a lower chiller evaporating temperature will use more electrical power per kW heat removed and the chiller COP will be worse, while a higher chiller evaporating temperature will use less electrical power per kW of heat removed and the COP will be higher. 

2. Holding chiller evaporating temperature constant: a higher chiller condensing temperature will have a worse chiller COP that having a lower chiller condensing temperature.

 A customer's process cooling requirement will determine the operating temperature for the air cooled water chiller. For example an air conditioning chiller will require water typically at 7 deg C outlet from the chiller evaporator and 12 deg C return. This would require a chiller refrigerant like R407C which is fine for ambient air environments of up to 45 deg C.

 Where a higher chiller water outlet temperature is required a chiller refrigerant gas like R134a would be acceptable and this has the added benefit of allowing the chiller to operate in much higher ambient conditions - for example - chillers in the Middle East and chillers in Australia - remote locations like mine sites - are often located where the ambient air can be 50 deg C or above.

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Air Heat Exchangers - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Air exchangers often are used to perform many functions such as reducing air contamination, heating or cooling air entering the building, and humidifying or dehumidifying air before it enters the building. Air to air heat exchangers or heat recovery ventilators, are used to provide a balanced flow of air into and out of a building. Ultimately an air exchangers main function is to switch the stale inside air with fresh outside air while exchanging the heat or cool in the process.

An air-to-air exchanger is used to recover heating or cooling and to improve the air quality of the building that it serves. Typically an exchanger has two fans, one blowing air into the house and one blowing air out of the house. In the winter time the one fan brings the outdoor cool air through the core warming it with the warm stale air you are exhausting. In the summer time the warm air from the outside will be cooled as it enters through the core to save on your cooling.

The amount of air that these exchangers bring into a home may vary depending on how the system has been installed. The codes in many places require a minimum amount of air to be exchanged. Check with your codes official to see what the requirements are for you.

There is some controversy about the savings of exchangers. Not only does it require electricity to run the air exchanger, but the air the exchanger brings into your house must be brought up to temperature. This may require that more electric is used to cool your building or that more fuel is also required for heating.

Many air exchangers are controlled simply by on and off switches, but in some applications where the removal of humidity is required, then a humidistat can be used to turn the machine on and off to achieve the humidity level that you want. In cases where there may be a lot of humidity the air exchanger may not be enough to solve the problem. Other devices may be needed to lower the humidity to the level that you want.

All air heat exchangers will require regular maintenance. The problem is that this is almost never performed by homeowners, and unless they know about the exchanger it is often overlooked by contractors during service calls. The real problem is that clogged, air-to-air exchangers can make the indoor air significantly worse than it would be without the system installed at all. If you have a home that already has a heat air exchanger, make sure that you keep it very well maintained or disconnect it.

Exchangers can be a very good thing for many buildings. Especially those that are very large and typically have a lot of occupants with little natural air exchange from doors or windows being opened. However they are also a health hazard if they are not serviced regularly. Make sure that if you live or work in a building that has air exchangers that you see to it that they are serviced properly.

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Heat Exchangers for Outdoor Corn Boilers

A heat exchanger is a device designed to efficiently transfer the heat from one medium to another. In the case of an outdoor corn boiler, these media would be air and water.

A typical domestic setup would include a water-to-water heat exchanger for hot water and a water-to-air heat exchanger for forced air home heat. Water-to-water exchangers are also used to heat hot tubs, swimming pools and the water for radiant baseboard or radiant in floor heating systems.

Water-to-Water Heat Exchangers

The three most common types of water-to-water heat exchangers used with outdoor

corn boilers are: Sidearm, Shell and Tube, and Brazed Plate. What differentiates one from the other besides the cost is the way they're designed to transfer heat from one medium to another, and the method used to create turbulence.

A key component in the efficient transfer of heat between liquids is turbulence. The more turbulent the flow of water, the more efficiently heat is transferred.

Sidearm Heat Exchanger

The sidearm exchanger is a popular and inexpensive choice for heating domestic hot water. It incorporates a pipe within a pipe design where the water in the inner pipe (your hot water) is heated by hot water from the boiler circulating through the outside pipe.

Turbulence is created by scrolling on the outer surface of the inside pipe.

This straightforward design prevents clogging by sediment and resists scaling. One drawback of the sidearm type is reported slow recovery under heavy use. 

Shell and Tube Heat Exchanger

Shell and tube heat exchangers are available in dozens of tube configurations and sizes ranging from a few feet long to 50 feet or more for power plant steam generation.

A variation on the shell and tube design is shell and coil where a helical (spiraling) coil replaces the tubes.

No matter what the design or application, the basic principle is the same. The water to be heated flows through tubes, and the heated boiler water encased by the shell flows around the tubes.

Turbulence is created by the baffles holding the tubes together in what is called a tube bundle.

Shell and tube exchangers for non-chlorinated water applications, such as domestic hot water and hydronic heating, are usually constructed with a brass shell and copper tubes.

For swimming pools and spas the shell should be PVC or stainless steel with stainless steel tubes. 316L grade stainless steel is commonly used for this application.

Cost: $200-$600 depending on copper or stainless construction and the overall size based on the volume of water to be heated.

Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger

The third type combines compact size with a highly efficient design to produce a device for heat transfer that is up to six times smaller than a shell and tube heat exchanger of similar capacity.

The key to this efficiency lies in their unique construction. Corrugated stainless steel plates are brazed together (eliminates gaskets) with every second plate turned 180 degrees. This design creates two highly turbulent fluid channels that flow in opposite directions (counter flow) over a massive surface area.

How to Clean Your Heat Exchanger Tubes

Heat exchanger tubes are part of a heat exchanger, which is a device used for efficient heat transfer from one area or medium or another in order that the hot fluids never mix when a solid wall separates it or whether the media are in direct contact. This device has various applications such as in space heating, refrigeration, power plants, air conditioning, petrochemical plants, chemical plants, petroleum refineries and for the processing of natural gas.

A typical example of this tool is found inside your cars known as the radiator where it acts as the heat transfer medium transferring hotness from water in the engine to the air flowing through the generator. There are several types of this device and each is crafted to suit the application where each is used.

As an efficient tool that is designed to work for its costumers, it being a scientific invention will also wear out once not taken care of. One best means to augment the working capacities of heat exchanger tubes is by thorough cleaning. There are a number of advantages why these units must be cleaned. One prime reason is it will protect your system from unexpected and sudden failure and this may work to the owners' disadvantage.

 Apart from ensuring that it will work properly, cleaning will also help increase the unit's efficiency. Checking on the unit at least once every three months will also lengthen the life of the unit and will make you have every penny's worth of your investment.

Since cleaning of heat exchanger tubes is beneficial, how does one proceed with it? What are the common methods of cleaning them? Here are some things to remember:

• Disconnect first the unit from the whole system itself to prevent electrocution. This is followed by removal of loose materials found close. This will prevent possible pushing of these materials towards the tube's interior once you start brushing.

• The next thing to do is to remove the materials found inside the tube prior to inserting appropriate sizes of brushes to start cleaning. Brushes with strong nylon bristles are advised to thoroughly clean the interiors of the tube and to remove whatever loose materials still present inside.

• Sometime brushing the interior is not enough so you have to scrape through the walls to remove materials that adhered to the tubes. It is important that you make use of a scraper made of materials that is less hard than the materials that compose your heat exchanger tubes to avoid damaging it.

• After doing the above step, let water rush through the interior to remove other materials not perfectly taken out by scraping. It will also lighten up the interiors.

Pressure Vessels

Pressure Vessels are closed lid containers which have been designed to hold liquids or gases at pressures substantially different from the ambient pressure. (The pressure outside of the container).During the history of their development many fatal accidents have occurred due to the dangerous differential pressure, and consequently their design, operation and manufacture have to be regulated by rules and regulations which are backed up by law.

The definition of a pressure vessel changes from country to country, however it still involves parameters such as the maximum safe operating temperature and maximum pressure.

They are used and seen in many different industries and some of their uses and applications are:

o Diving cylinders

o Nuclear reactor vessel

o Road vehicle airbrake reservoir

o Hydraulic reservoir

o Storage tanks for butane, ammonia, propane and chlorine gases and liquids

They can take practically any shape depending upon its application, however the most commonly used shapes are cones, cylinders and spheres. A very popular design for them is a cylindrical shape with a hemispherical end cap.

In theory a sphere is the best shape for a pressure vessel; however a spherical shape is quite difficult and expensive to manufacture so cylindrical shapes are more commonly employed. Small vessels can be manufactured from a pipe and two end covers.

Most are made of steel, but they can be manufactured from any material which has good tensile properties, and is chemically stable for the desired application. Other materials such as carbon fibre which are held in place with a polymer can also be used due to its high tensile strength, it is much lighter than steel but more difficult to manufacture. Some composite materials may be wrapped around a metal liner forming a composite overwrapped vessel.

They can be lined with other types of various metals, ceramics or polymers to help prevent leaking, and also to help protect the vessels structure from the contained fluid or gases.

Pressure vessels are designed to work safely at specific temperatures and pressures. Any vessel that is not designed by the desired code or codes represents a significant safety hazard.

Create Your Own Custom License Plates - A Complete Review

Lately specialty license plates are one of the coolest items in several areas around the nation, and it is not so hard to see why. Think about it. No matter what model your car is, any other driver on the road has, in all likelihood, seen hundreds if not thousands of the same car in his or her lifetime. 

However with custom license plates, it does not matter because you can be recognized anyway. If you have an exclusive and clever license plate, then you will be at the very least the only one in your state to get noticed with that particular message. Now tell me who does not want to be noticed? I sure know that I do.

One of my favorite license plates is the one where the letters form unusual patterns. It went something like "wvwvwvw" once. Now when I think back on this vanity license plate, perhaps whoever got it, did so just to baffle the cops, but still, it was pretty cool. What are even cooler these days are that you can use in some states - custom front plates. 

Where I live - in California, the law requires you to have the same state issued license plates on both the front as well as the back of your car or truck, but in several places this is not the case. You can actually choose to have anything you want as your front license plate, and that is where you can let your creativity run wild and have a lot of fun.

Among my favorite front license plates are the ones representing your favorite brand of something. In fact I particularly like license plates that advertise the kind of car that they are on. Who knows, for instance, why you are driving that Ford. Perhaps you love it or because you inherited it from your aunt when she passed away, or just simply because you got a fantastic deal on it. 

However if you put custom license plates that say "Ford" on the front of it, everyone will know that you are driving that car because it is your dream car, and their respect for you will go way up. Sure, everyone loves a woman or a man who reaches out and takes just what they want, someone who is decisive and an achiever, and specialty license plates can let everyone know that that is just what you are. Surely, there is no substitute for that kind of publicity.

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Learn About the Benefits of Water Towed Generators For Sailboats

The debate between wind generators, towed generators, solar power and the so called 'gensets' has been raging for years.

The fact is that in these days with all of the environmental issues surrounding us, installing a genset is just a non issue. A combination of air, solar and water power generation is the only solution for most cruising sailboats. By most, we are referring to yachts up to 50ft. approximately which would comprise 90% of cruisers sailing our oceans.

All these options draw their energy from the natural elements we are passing through whilst sailing - with a nil carbon footprint. They take up little room (excepting solar panels) and are silent - perfect! Stack this up against the diesel generator which is noisy, requires a lot of inboard space, uses diesel fuel, needs constant attention (servicing), and with a poor power output - you do not want a diesel generator running all day! I personally used a combination of a wind generator and a water towed generator. 

The wind generator is fine when sailing to windward, but output drops off a lot when sailing downwind. So the back up was a towed generator which produced 9 - 11 amps constantly when sailing downwind at 8 - 9 knots.This pumped enough power into the batteries so that would run all the boats' power needs effortlessly, including the refrigerator and water maker, which enabled us to arrive at every port with full water tanks. I ran (towed) it during the day, retrieving it onboard again at sunset.

Technology has moved on and the units you can now purchase are even more efficient.

The average yacht these days is more often than not fitted out with a wide range of electrical equipment to help make navigation simpler, safer and more enjoyable for the skipper and crews onboard. These all take a drain on the ships batteries and that power needs to be replaced as efficiently and quickly as possible.

Anyone who owns a yacht already owns a large wind energy generator, and that is the yacht itself. The average wind turbine suitable for mounting on a yacht may span 7 - 10 square feet of air stream, whereas the sail of a typical cruising yacht will of course intercept an area far greater than this.

As a result an easy and efficient way to maximize power generation for your battery whilst cruising is by drawing energy from the yacht's movement through the water rather than directly from the wind.

This is where a towed generator comes into its own. Many yachtsmen consider towed water generators too much trouble, but this is an efficient way to get a lot of energy out of the wind, particularly when on long passages.

Originally these towed generators were designed just for towing but since the first were developed things have changed and there are all sorts of varieties available to choose from to suit your needs. The most modern designs can be used as a towed generator whilst sailing and can then be adapted to work as a wind generator when anchored and stationary.

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